Monday, June 1, 2015

ThickSkin FTW - Display Board Creation

This display board came together pretty quickly and turned out looking pretty solid.  The main issue was creating a display board that would fit so many large units!

Michael and I came up with a theme that combined our armies, but couldn't decide on a basing scheme that worked for both armies so instead did our own basing schemes and created the fluff to match.  (Fluff in the first Adepticon post basically wherever Nurgle steps life springs up and nasty water is drawn up from the ground).  So I needed a display board that would fit that, showing my basing surrounding my units while his could go on the main "Badlands".

1. Cut MDF board to fit the poster frame.
2. Figure out where the Nurgle units would be on the board
3. Add movement trays and trace.  Add Apoxie Sculpt around movement trays to match my basing
4. Add Crackle Paste everywhere else - let dry (
5. Add ballast to apoxie sculpt areas
6. Paint and dry brush entire display
7. Add resin to recessed areas
8. Using wood glue, glue in the insert to the poster frame. (Clamps or additional weights help keep it secure
9. Use poster tabs (or if no poster tabs for normal frame use finishing nails) to lock in insert.
10. Add Terrain/models

Steps 1-4
I can't remember where I first saw this, but the idea was to buy a poster frame from Wal-Mart and insert the MDF board into it.   So first I cut out a piece of MDF board that was the correct size of the frame.  I did this by first tracing on the mdf from the top (the exact dimensions of what would be seen) and then going back and measuring the lip on the underside.  This was then added using a yardstick to show where I needed to cut.  The other line that I drew would then be my guide to know where to keep the MDF board free from basing materials.

First I placed the movement trays on the board where I wanted my units to go and added the same basing style around these areas.  Once this was dry I used the crackle paste every where else on the display board and waited for it to dry and crackle.

This picture shows the apoxie sculpt, my movement trays fitting in their slots and the crackle paste added
Step 5

 Glue down the ballast to the nurgle areas.

Step 6
You will see in the first picture I actually chose to paint the nurgle areas first.  This was because the bases I did used a specific brown primer and then drybrush from there.  Once this was done and the recesses had been painted the dark green I had some mournfang brown paint from Menards that I had made up and I created a "wash" with this paint and painted it onto the crackle.  This helped it sink into all the recesses and left it very bright to match Michael's basing.

Note:  The Crackle Paste was not primed.  If I were to do it again I would prime the crackle paste using white and then hit it with a hard coat at the end.  This would help protect the crackle paste and would help with some of the rub off that we had at the tournament revealing the bare white underneath.

 Brown spray paint to start

 After the brown paints
 Note the heavy white showing through in the middle where paint rubbed off.

Step 7
Similar to my model basing I then used a two part resin to fill in the recesses to look like water

Step 8
I then SPARINGLY added wood glue to the edges of the MDF board.  I say sparingly because you don't want a ton of the glue running out onto your painted display board.  Of course you could always use a wet rag to rub it off.

Step 9
See Pictures.  If you are using a normal frame like I did for my Masters 2015 tournament display board I highly recommend adding the finishing nails.  Game 2 of masters the MDF fell out the bottom.  Luckily it was on the table and I was picking it up so the army on the MDF just sat there and didn't fall when I was actually going from table to table!

 Poster tabs helping secure the MDF
Finishing nails securing MDF

 Final Product prior to adding the Orcs


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