We've got our resident Guest Bastard Chad Hanson back for another tutorial. This time we learn how he did the cork basing on his new Warriors army. Rodge out!
Cork Basing has been around for a long time. Some of the cork basing I have seen, however, looks just like that, cork. I wanted to do my basing in such a way that it doesn’t look like cork anymore. This is how I did it.
I started off placing my bases face down on a sheet of cork. I used MDF laser cut bases but I realized later that I should have used the GW bases because of the empty space under them. Live and Learn.
I glued them in place using a good amount of super glue.
Using a sharp new blade, I cut through the cork, flush up against the bases.
This is what the bases should look like. Now cut each base free.
Cut out a piece of cork that covers all of your bases. It should not be cut perfectly, and it should not go over the edges of the bases but it should go up to the edge of the bases.
I used a sculpting tool like the one below to cut out the cork. The Hook end with a triangle point is a strong tool that didn’t bend and could easily tear the cork apart.
The other end of the tool was a straight triangle point that was great for poking into the side and tearing the flat side of the cork.
I find the best way of making cork basing that look less like cork is by tearing the flat cork and making it ruff and jagged.
You’ll end up getting a lot of extra scrap pieces. DO NOT THROW THEM OUT. These extra pieces are great in later steps.
Here you can see the final product. There is a hole in the cork but that is alright.
Again, applying a good amount of super glue, I attached this piece to the bases.
This is what it looks like glued on.
At this point, most people would cut the cork, but I didn’t. I like the cork jagged and overlapping the other bases so I tore each base away from the other base. Make sure you keep them in the right order as you put them down.
A picture of the top cork and the bases separated.
Some the cork chunks overlap too far and make it hard to pick up a base without picking up another one. I used my finger to rub each edge and clear away large pieces.
Some the first layer of the cork shows through. I used the sculpting tool again to ruffle up the flat cork. I’m careful not to tear through the cork all the way to the base because I don’t want the original base to show.
You can see the edges now have a rocky look.
Not onto the movement tray. I make my movement trays at the same time so it matches the bases.
Cut a piece of cork about ¾” inches larger than the bases. In the end, the final product will be about a half inch or less from the edge of the bases. (Rodge note: This is a bit big for my tastes. I prefer to keep my edges down to 1/4" at the most. Each to his own, though!)
Cut out four more strips of cork that is ¾ inches and as long as the base.
Glue them down into place. Cut the shorter pieces so they fit snuggely in.
I added another layer of cork. This strip is about a ¼ inch wide and as you can see, with a ruffed up top.
Using my sculpting tool again I tear the cork down to a roughed up edge.
When tearing the edges, make sure the different layers are not easily visible
When looking at the edges straight on, you can easily see the layers of cork.
Using the small pieces of the cork, glue them into different places on the edge. This breaks up layered look.
With the extra pieces on the edge it hides the layers look.
I added magnets to the bottom of each base. The magnet is a 1” wide strip. I placed one magnet to another. This magnet will be glued to the movement tray.
Because the 1” magnet is a little larger, I trimmed the edge down flush to the base.
Add some glue to the bottom magnet and push the base in place.
This is what the bases look like when you are done.
I added some magnet strips to the bottom so I can put this movement tray on a metal sheet. That way I can transport this unit all ranked up.
Comment to this post with any questions and I'll get back to you!