Friday, November 7, 2014

Ask the Bastards #14

This installment is a response to Jason T's comments on the Malekith's Mindrazors Post. The team was dipped.


I've always wanted to try dipping and have a few Qs for ya:
1) From what I've read the MinWax line of stains is a popular dip choice. What did you use for your dip?
2) Again, only from other sources, I've read that highlighting over dip can be difficult to the point of not working. Yours look really nice. Do you feel the highlights applied differently or worked differently over the dip?
3) Did you actually dip the models or did you brush it on? 


Hi Jason, Rodge here.

1) I used Minwax Antique Walnut Satin stain on these guys as well as the wood elves and everything else I've dipped. It is a rich reddish brown color reminiscent of the much revered chestnut ink from the old days. The color is great for brown, yellow, orange, red, gold or flesh basecoat colors. I think it's okay on purples and certain muted greens. On silver, it can give it a sort of junky or worn look. Although, the dip likes to pool on larger flat areas typically associated with armor and weapons.

I've heard Minwax Tudor Satin stain is good if you want a darker, less reddish brown. I've picked up a tin but haven't tried it on anything as of yet.

2) Painting over dip can be challenging due to the glossy surface. There are a couple tricks you can use.

You can matte varnish the model after the dip. Matte varnishes can still have a little slipperyness to the surface but it seems better to work with than the straight dip. I did find that one of my random craft store spray varnishes leaves a perfectly paintable surface but the label fell off the can a while ago so I don't know the brand/type!

The second thing you can do is apply a wash to the areas you want to paint. This helps break up the one note dip look models can get as well. So on these blood bowlers I used a purple wash on the purple areas to tint the dip browns back towards purple. After that was done, the surface was pretty much good to go for normal painting.

Last thing you can do is just paint thru the pain. Coverage is going to be spotty at first, so you're just trying to get the paint to dry in the right spots. Once you have a little bit dried on, then there is some tooth for the rest of the paint to stick and it's generally easy going after that.

3) I actually dipped them. Get a pliers to hold the base. Dunk 'em and give it 8-10 sharp shakes over some scrap cardboard or newspaper. It is important to have pieces of foam, paper towel or a junk brush on hand to sop up the dip on any larger flat areas. If you don't do this, you can get the thick pooling that actually distorts the detail or shape of the model. 

I've brushed on dip previously as well. Assuming you have an outdoor or garage space to do it, though, I would suggest an actual dip over brushing for speed and coverage purposes. No matter how quick of a brushslinger you are, it'll never be faster than dunking the damn things. You actually need to take it pretty slow when brushing it on. Slopping it on will cause pooling issues. Not getting enough on means you have cracks the dip doesn't quite get to. If you do run into that, though, and don't catch it til much later, a mix of Devlan Mud or Gryphonne Sepia (or their current equivalents) seem to be a close color match to Antique Walnut Satin.

Hope that helps! Writing these thoughts has got me all excited for another dip project now!

3 comments:

Jason Traska said...

Thanks for the info there Rogers. When you use the pliers on the base, are you using a temporary base so as not to mess up the final base w/ the ribs on the jaws of the pliers?

Rogers said...

Hey Jason, I've always used the actual base. Never had a problem with that as far as I can remember. Sometimes I flock before the dip, sometimes after. I use a needle nose pliers with very small teeth. I reckon that could be the key.

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